Saturday 28 January 2023

Window Seat | Weekly Column in English | 29.1.23

 

Window Seat | Mrinal Chatterjee | 29.1.23

Netaji

Watch this photograph of a heavily garlanded idol of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose taken on 23 January morning on the occasion of his 126th birthday. At times a simple photograph can provide a glimpse into the state of affairs, like no writings can.

Photo: Kishore Bit


See how the garlands are covering Netaji’s face. One cannot even see the face of Netaji. One only sees the garlands - the adulation. The real Netaji and his true spirit get lost amidst the adulatory din and bustle. Gradually, the garlanded idol-the deified image becomes prominent, the ideology of the person, his philosophy, his words and actions - take a back seat and eventually forgotten.

This happens with all great persons. The uber-deification obfuscates the true spirit of the person.

And watch the very act of garlanding the idol of Netaji or for that matter any great person on special occasions. On such occasions neither the person or his/her work and contribution is important. What are important are the ones on the dais, who garlanded and got photographed while doing so. It’s not about the great person, it is about them- in the name of Netaji.  

Photo: Kishore Bit.

Pahalgam

On our vacation trip to Kashmir, before arriving at Srinagar from Gulmarg, we went to Pahalgam for two days. About 90 kms away from Srinagar, Pahalgam is situated at the junction of the Aru and Sheshnag Rivers. At 2740 meters height, it is famous for its scenic beauty and is considered as the jewel of the picturesque Liddar valley. It is also the starting point of the annual pilgrimage to the holy cave of Amarnath.

It has several picturesque locations to visit. It has its own ‘mini Switzerland’ in Baisaran which, we were told, can be accessed only on foot or on pony beyond a point

There were some banners near the ‘pony stand’ with pictures of the ‘mini Switzerland’. It looked straight out of Yash Chopra's movies and we hired three ponies, one for my-self, one for my son and one for my wife. There were two persons handling the ponies. I have forgotten the names of the persons but I still remember the name of my pony: Siddhu. It was for the first time we rode on ponies and as we mounted, they whined. Probably they complained to their handlers: kis mota moti ko bitha diya! (who are these fat people, you made to ride on us!). God, were we scared! We kept on telling each other not to worry, the horses know the route.



Finally we reached the mini Switzerland. It is indeed a beautiful valley - a hilltop green meadow dotted with dense pine forests and surrounded by snowcapped mountains.

Plumeria

Plumeria or Frangipani is called Gulchin and Golenchi in Hindi, Kathgolop in Bengali, Champha in Marathi, Khagi-leihao-angouba in Manipuri, Nela sampangi in Tamil, Chaempae in Konkani. In Odia we call it Katha Champa. Some of the popular names of this tree are Temple Tree or Pagoda Tree in India and the Far East, Graveyard Tree in the Caribbean Islands, Temple Flower in Sri Lanka. The Plumeria is the national tree of Laos, where it is called dok jampa. In Santali it is called Gulachi. A short fiction film on women trafficking has been made title Sacred Gulachi.

Photo: Mrinal Chatterjee


It has beautiful foliage in summer and rainy season. In winter, bereft of leaves, it wears a desolate look. However, some flowers still bloom underlining the fact that there is always hope and happiness, even at the direst of the situations.

Tail-piece: Cat Power

If you enjoy browsing the Internet a lot then you're probably already familiar with the fact that there are literally millions of cat photos on it, to the point that the cat has to be the Internet's unofficial mascot and most beloved animal. That is interesting because cat is an interesting and utterly ungrateful animal. Human beings have been unsuccessfully trying for the last 10,000 years to domesticate it. I have a special fascination for this animal. So much so that I have written a novel (Kandhei) with a cat as the protagonist. One of my story collections is also named after a cat (Bidhumukhi). Recently I published translations of selected stories of Sirshendu Mukhopadhaya. That also has a cat on its cover. 

I am glad to know that there is one lady photographer Felicity Berkleef , who has taken hundreds of photographs of cats. Here is one of her photographs and two of my books with cats on cover. See the cat-power.

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mrinalchatterjeeiimc@gmail.com

 

 

Poem translated from original Hindi to Odia | 29.1.23

Sakal, 29.1.23

 

Pathe Prantare | Weekly Column in Odia | 29.1.23

Samay 29.1.23

 

Sunday 22 January 2023

About Alcohol. My article in Odia | 23.1.23

Nirbhaya, 23.1.23

 

Window Seat | Weekly Column in english | 22.1.23

 

Window Seat | Mrinal Chatterjee | 22.1.23

Srinagar in winter

Even as we planned our trip, we were told that you need to visit Kashmir twice to appreciate its beauty: once in summer to see the colourful Kashmir, and once in winter to wee the snow clad Kashmir. We wanted both, but at one go. So off we went to Gulmarg first, where we saw the snow-clad Kashmir. Then we came to Pahalgam, where we saw the snow-clad mountains from a distance, and found some snow at the ‘mini-Switzerland’, where people were riding on wooden sledges. And then we came to Srinagar and realized why we should not have come there in the winter.

Parimahal, Nishat Bagh, Shalimar

In Srinagar, on day one we were taken on what my son later called ‘bagicha-vraman’- garden tour. We were first taken to Parimahal (Palace of Fairies). It is a seven-terraced garden located at the top of Zabarwan mountain range, overlooking the city of Srinagar and the south-west of Dal Lake. Built during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, it is an example of Islamic architecture.

We also went to the Mughal Gardens at Shalimar and Nishat Bagh, overlooking Dal Lake. Both Shalimar and Nishat (Delight) Bagh (garden) were built by Mughal Emperor Jahangir, for his wife Nur Jahan, in 1619. These Gardens are considered the high point of Mughal horticulture.

However, at the time of our visit the gardens looked worn out and flower less, which was natural in winter. The lake inside the Botanical Garden was half frozen. Some kids were enjoying themselves by breaking the thin ice floating on the lake. The famous Tulip Garden was closed as it was not the time of its blooming.

A wilted Botanical Garden at Srinagar, Kahsmir in winter.
Photo: Mrinal Chatterjee, 24.12.22


Amir Khusrau (Abu'l Hasan Yamīn ud-Dīn Khusrau, 1253–1325 AD), Indo-Persian Sufi singer, musician, poet and scholar who lived under the Delhi Sultanate wrote a couplet in Farsi in praise of Kashmir. It reads:   

Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast,

Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast.

In English translation, it reads:

If there is a paradise on earth,

It is this, it is this, it is this”

Srinagar definitely did not look like a paradise in the winter.

 

The Mahanadi

 

The Mahanadi is the largest river in Odisha and at 900 km one of the major rivers of East Central India. The Mahanadi River system is the third largest of peninsular India after Godavari and Krishna.  It rises from a place near Sihawa, near Raipur in the state of Chhattisgarh to the south of Amarkantak and flows through Chhattisgarh and Odisha into the Bay of Bengal.

The Mahanadi River holds economic, agrarian and cultural importance for Odisha. Anil Dhir, a social researcher has been researching and documenting temples, existing and submerged, archaeological sites, monuments, and geological wonders for the last four years. He plans to put the findings with photographs, drawings and his experiences in two volume book. The first volume is scheduled to be released on the  21 January, at the Maritime Museum, Cuttack, which is located on the banks of the Mahanadi.

In his social media page, Dhir writes, “Four years of back-breaking efforts along with Deepak Nayak and team members from the other Chapters of Intach.  Traversing the entire length of the great river from  Bargarh to the estuary at Paradeep, covering nine districts of the State.  We walked on the banks and used boats, motorcycles, jeeps, bicycles, and bullock carts to cover the nearly 500 kms of the stretch of the river in Odisha. And this too on both the banks, so literally we did more than a 1000 kms of   survey, that too with a fine tooth comb. Major hitherto unreported discoveries have been made. Of the nearly 500 monuments we have listed, 80 are unique and are being reported for the first time.  We also discovered 60 submerged temples inside the Mahanadi.

The two-volume book has nearly 1200 photographs, 50 maps and is the most detailed report on the Mahanadi released to date. This is only half the story. We shall be starting the Chhattisgarh stretch (400 kms), from its origin till it enters Odisha very soon. Only then will the report be complete.” 

 Homai Vyrawalla

Eleven years ago, on 19 January Homai Vyrawalla, the first female photojournalist breathed her last. She is best known for documenting the country's transition from a British colony to a newly independent nation, and some tumultuous events post-independence.

Born on 9 December 1913 in Gujarat in a Parsi family, she spent much of her childhood on the move because her father was an actor in a travelling theatre group. The family soon moved to Mumbai (then Bombay), where she attended the JJ School of Art.

She was in college when she met Manekshaw Vyarawalla, a freelance photographer, who she would later marry. It was he who introduced her to photography.

The Vyarawallas moved to Delhi in 1942 after they were hired to work as photographers for the British Information Service.

She took her most iconic images, however, after India became independent - from the departure of the British from India, to the funerals of Mahatma Gandhi and former Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru.

The first Republic Day Celebration of India, 1950.
Photo: Homai Vyrawalla
Though being a female photographer in the 21st century seemed very common, it was a big deal back then. Camera in a woman's hands was the topic of discussion for people.

This is what she said in an interview- "People were very conservative. They didn't want women to walk around and when they saw me walking with camera in saree they found it a very bizarre and initially they thought I was just fooling people with camera. I may not be a photographer. I'm just pretending. They didn't take me seriously anyway. But it proved useful for me."

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This column is published every Sunday in Gangtok based English daily Siukki9m Express and www.prameyanews.com

Friday 20 January 2023

Bahi Katha | Column on Books | 18.1.23

 ବହି କଥା ।ା ଡ. ମୃଣାଳ ଚାଟାର୍ଜୀ


ପରିବର୍ତ୍ତନର ସୂତ୍ରଧର


ବହି: ବିଙ୍ଗ୍‍  ଦ ଚେଞ୍ଜ: ଇନ ଦ ଫୁଟ ଷ୍ଟେପ୍‍ସ୍‍ ଅଫ ମହାତ୍ମା

ଲେଖକ: ଆଶୁତୋଷ ଶଲିଲ ଏବଂ ବର୍ଖା ମାଥୁର

ପ୍ରଥମ ପ୍ରକାଶନ: ୨୦୨୨



ଏ ପୁସ୍ତକର ଦୁଇଜଣ ଲେଖକଙ୍କ ବିଷୟରେ ଆଗେ ଦୁଇପଦ କହିବା ଦରକାର । ଆଶୁତୋଷ ଶଲିଲ୍‍ ଜଣେ ଭାରତୀୟ  ପ୍ରଶାସନିକ ସେବା (ଆଇଏଏସ) ଅଧିକାରୀ । ବର୍ଖା ମାଥୁର ନାଗପୁରରେ ଅବସ୍ଥାପିତ ଜଣେ ସାମ୍ବାଦିକା । ଉଭୟଙ୍କ ମଧ୍ୟରେ କମନ୍‍ କଥାଟି ହେଲା ଉଭୟେ ସମାଜର ତୃଣମୁଳ ସ୍ଥରରେ ସକାରାତ୍ମକ କାର୍ଯ୍ୟ କଣ ହେଉଛି ଏବଂ କିଏ କରୁଛନ୍ତି ତାକୁ ଜାଣିବା ପାଇଁ ଆଗ୍ରହୀ । 

ଏହି ଆଗ୍ରହର ଫଳଶୃତି ହେଲା ଏ ପୁସ୍ତକ, ଯେଉଁଥିରେ ସାତଜଣ ଏମିତି ଲୋକଙ୍କ କଥା ଲେଖାଯାଇଛି, ଯେଉଁମାନେ ଅତ୍ୟନ୍ତ ପ୍ରତିକୁଳ ଅବସ୍ଥାରେ ସମାଜର ତୃଣମୁଳ ସ୍ତରରେ ନିର୍ଯାତିତ, ନିଷ୍ପେସିତ, ଅବହେଳିତ  ଲୋକମାନଙ୍କ ପାଇଁ କାର୍ଯ୍ୟ କରୁଛନ୍ତି । ସେମାନେ ଚୁପ୍‍ଚାପ୍‍ ନିଜ କାର୍ଯ୍ୟ କରୁଛନ୍ତି । ନିଜକୁ ବିଜ୍ଞାପିତ କରୁ ନାହାନ୍ତି । ତୃଣମୁଳ ସ୍ତରରେ ସକାରାତ୍ମକ ପରିବର୍ତ୍ତନର ଯେଉଁ ବାର୍ତ୍ତା ମହାତ୍ମା ଗାନ୍ଧୀ ଦେଇ ଯାଇଥିଲେ ତାକୁ ସେମାନେ ନିଜ ଜୀବନରେ କରି ଦେଖାଉଛନ୍ତି । 

ମହାତ୍ମା ଗାନ୍ଧୀ କହିଥିଲେ ଭାରତ ଗାଁରେ ବାସ କରେ ଆଉ ଗରିବ ଲୋକମାନଙ୍କ ପାଇଁ ଯଦି କାମ କରିବାର  ଅଛି ତାହାହେଲେ ଆମକୁ ଗାଁରେ ଯାଇ କାମ କରିବାକୁ ପଡିବ । ଯେଉଁ ସାତଜଣଙ୍କ କଥା ଏ ବହିରେ ଲେଖାଯାଇଛି  ସେମାନେ ମହାତ୍ମା ଗାନ୍ଧୀଙ୍କ  ଏହି ବାଣୀକୁ ହିଁ ମନ୍ତ୍ରକରି ସମାଜର ସେବା କରିଚାଲିଛନ୍ତି । 

ଏମାନଙ୍କ ମଧ୍ୟରୁ ଅନେକ ସେମାନଙ୍କର କାର୍ଯ୍ୟ ପାଇଁ ପରିଚିତି ପାଇଛନ୍ତି, ପୁରସ୍କାର ମଧ୍ୟ ପାଇଛନ୍ତି । କିନ୍ତୁ ବିଜ୍ଞାପିତ ବିଶେଷ ହେଇ ନାହାନ୍ତି । ଏମାନଙ୍କ ଭିତରୁ ଜଣେ ହେଲେ ମାର୍ଟିନ୍‍ । ମାର୍ଟିନ ଏମିତି ଏକ ଆଦିବାସୀ ସଂପ୍ରଦାୟର ଲୋକ ଯେଉଁମାନଙ୍କୁ ବ୍ରିଟିଶ ଅମଳରେ ‘ଅପରାଧି ଜାତି’ (କ୍ରିମନାଲ୍‍ ଟ୍ରାଇବ୍‍) ବୋଲି କୁହାଯାଉଥିଲା । ସ୍ୱାଧୀନତା ପାଇଲା ପରେ ଭାରତ ସରକାର ଏଭଳି ପରିଚୟ ପ୍ରତ୍ୟାହାର କରିନେଇଥିଲେ । ହେଲେ ସାମାଜିକ ସ୍ତରରେ ସେ ଅପବାଦ ରହିଯାଇଥିଲା । ମାର୍ଟିନର ବାପାଙ୍କୁ ୧୯୮୦ରେ ଚୋରି ଅପରାଧରେ ଜେଲଦଣ୍ଡ ଦିଆଯାଇଥିଲା । ମାର୍ଟିନ ବିଶ୍ୱାସ କରନ୍ତି ଯେ ତାଙ୍କ ବାପା ଏ କାମ କରିନଥିଲେ । ଏହାପରେ ମାର୍ଟିନ ପାଠ ପଢ଼ିଲେ, କାରଣ ସେମାନଙ୍କ ସାମ୍ନାରେ ଗୋଟିଏହିଁ ମାତ୍ର ରାସ୍ତା ଥିଲା ଯେକୌଣସି ମତେ ସେମାନେ ପାଠ ପଢ଼ିଲେ ଦାରିଦ୍ରର କବଳରୁ ସେମାନେ ମୁକ୍ତ ହେବେ ଏବଂ ଯେଉଁ ସାମାଜିକ ଅପବାଦ ତାଙ୍କୁ ଘେରି ରହିଛି ସେଥିରୁ ସେମାନେ ମୁକ୍ତ ହେବେ । ମାର୍ଟିନ ପାଠ ପଢ଼ିଲେ । ସେଣ୍ଟ୍ରାଲ ରିଜର୍ଭ ପୋଲିସ ଫୋର୍ସ(ସିଆରପିଏଫ)ରେ ଚାକିରି ଆରମ୍ଭ କଲେ । କିନ୍ତୁ ଅଧାରୁ ଚାକିରି ଛାଡି ସେ ନିଜ ଗାଁକୁ ଫେରିଆସିଲେ ଏବଂ ଗୋଟେ ସରକାରୀ ସ୍କୁଲରେ ଶିକ୍ଷକ ହେଲେ ।  ପରେ ପରେ ସେ ନିଜ ସଂପ୍ରଦାୟର ପିଲାମାନଙ୍କ ପାଇଁ ଗୋଟେ ସ୍କୁଲ କଲେ । ସ୍କୁଲର ନାଁ ଦେଲେ- ପ୍ରଶ୍ନଚିହ୍ନ ଆଦିବାସୀ ଆଶ୍ରମଶାଳା । ସାରା ମହାରାଷ୍ଟ୍ର ବୁଲି ବୁଲି ଟ୍ରାଫିକ ସିଗନାଲ ପାଖରେ, ଫୁଟପାଥରେ ଯେଉଁ ପିଲାମାନେ ଇଆଡେ ସିଆଡେ ବୁଲୁଥିଲେ, ତାଙ୍କୁ ଆଣି ନିଜ ସ୍କୁଲରେ ଭର୍ତ୍ତିକଲେ । ଯେଉଁଠି ସେ ସ୍କୁଲଟି ତିଆରି କରିଥିଲେ, ସେଟା ସରକାରୀ ଜାଗା ହୋଇଥିବା ଅଭିଯୋଗରେ ତାର ଗୋଟେ ଅଂଶକୁ ବୁଲଡୋଜରରେ ଭାଙ୍ଗିଦିଆଗଲା । ତଥାପି ମାର୍ଟିନ ସ୍କୁଲକୁ ବଜାୟ ରଖିଲେ । ଏବେ ସେ ସ୍କୁଲଟି ଅତ୍ୟନ୍ତ ପରିଚିତ ।   

ସେମିତି ନକ୍‍ସଲପନ୍ଥ଼ୀଙ୍କ ଦୂର୍ଗ ବୋଲି କୁହାଯାଉଥିବା ଗଡଚିରୋଲିରେ କାମକରୁଥିବା ମୋହନ ଏବଂ ଦେୱାଜୀଙ୍କ କଥା ମଧ୍ୟ ଏ ବହିରେ ଲେଖା ଯାଇଛି । ଏମାନେ ମହାତ୍ମା   ଗାନ୍ଧୀଙ୍କର ଗ୍ରାମ ସ୍ୱରାଜର ସ୍ୱପ୍ନକୁ ସାକାର କରିବାପାଇଁ ଚେଷ୍ଟା କରୁଛନ୍ତି । 

ବହିରେ ଦୁଇଜଣ ଡାକ୍ତର ଦମ୍ପତିଙ୍କ କଥା ଲେଖା ଯାଇଛି । ସେମାନଙ୍କ ନାଁ ଆଶିଷ ଆଉ କବିତା । ସେମାନେ ଗଭର୍ଣ୍ଣମେଣ୍ଟ ମେଡିକାଲ କଲେଜରୁ  ଏମ.ଡି. କରିଛନ୍ତି । ପୃଥିବୀର ଯେକୌଣସି ସ୍ଥାନରେ ଯାଇ ସେମାନେ ଡାକ୍ତରି କରିପାରିଥାନ୍ତେ । କିନ୍ତୁ ସେମାନେ ମହାରାଷ୍ଟ୍ରର ଅମରାବତୀ ଜିଲ୍ଲାର ଏକ ଆଦିବାସୀ ବହୁଳ ବ୍ଲକ ଧର୍ମୀକୁ ଯାଇ, ଗାଁରେ ରହି ଗାଁ ଲୋକଙ୍କର ଚିକିିତ୍ସା କରିବାପାଇଁ ଲାଗିଲେ ।୧୯୮୪ରୁ ସେମାନେ ଲୋକଙ୍କ ଚିକିତ୍ସାସେବା ପାଇଁ କାମ କରୁଛନ୍ତି । 

ଏମିତି ଅନେକ ଲୋକ ପାଦପ୍ରଦୀପରୁ ଦୂରରେ, ପ୍ରାନ୍ତୀୟ ଅଗମ୍ୟ ଗାଁରେ ରହି ଗରିବ ଲୋକମାନଙ୍କ ପାଇଁ କାମ କରୁଛନ୍ତି । ଏ ବହିରେ ସେମିତି କେତେଜଣ ଲୋକମାନଙ୍କ କଥା କୁହାଯାଇଛି । ଏ ବହିଟି ସେମାନଙ୍କ ପାଇଁ ଅତ୍ୟନ୍ତ ଉପଯୋଗୀ ହେବ ଯେଉଁମାନେ ସବୁକଥାରେ ଅସନ୍ତୁଷ୍ଟ, ଯେଉଁମାନେ ସମସ୍ୟାର ସମାଧାନ ଦିଗରେ ନିଜର କିଛି ଯୋଗଦାନ ନଦେଇ କେବଳ ଦୋଷାରୋପରେ ମାତିଥାନ୍ତି । ଏ ବହିଟି ହୁଏତ ସେମାନଙ୍କୁ କହିପାରିବ ଯେ ଜଣେ ଯଦି  ସମସ୍ୟାର ସମାଧାନ ଦିଗରେ ନିଜର ଯୋଗଦାନ ଦିଏ ତେବେ ପରିବର୍ତ୍ତନ ଆସିପାରିବ । ଏ ବହି ମାଧ୍ୟମରେ ସେମାନେ ଭାରତରେ ପରିବର୍ତ୍ତନର ଏକ ଝଲକ ଦେଖି ପାରନ୍ତି ।

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Sunday 1 January 2023

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Window Seat | Mrinal Chatterjee | 1.1.23

Kashmir Diary

It is said that you have to visit Kashmir twice to enjoy its beauty- once during the winter to enjoy ‘white’ Kashmir and then in summer to enjoy the ‘rainbow’ Kashmir. Even if it was our first visit to Kashmir, my wife chose to enjoy the ‘white’ Kashmir first. So off we went to Gulmarg on late December. We landed from a cozy 25 degree plus in Dhenkanal to a freezing minus two degrees in Gulmarg.

After two days in Gulmarg, we went to Pahalgam, situated at the junction of the Aru and Sheshnag Rivers and surrounded by tall fir-covered mountains and snow-clad peaks. We stayed at the outskirts of Pahalgam town on the bank of the Lidder river. After spending two days there, we went to Srinagar and spent four days before we returned.

An executive summary of our trip-experience:  Kashmir is a beautiful place- a jannat (heaven or swarg in Hindi). But it is far too expensive and at times you feel like the proverbial chicken which everyone, you come in contact with- from local tour guides to the taxi-walas to  the ghoda-walas to shopkeepers - want to kill. As a result you become over protective and look at everybody with suspicion. That deters you from enjoying the beauty of the place.

Gulmarg

“Gulmarg (which means meadow of flowers) is a must-go place”- that was what everybody suggested when we planned our trip. We consulted google baba, which said: “Nestled in the Pir Panjal range of the Western Himalayas at an altitude of 8,690 feet above sea level, it is encased by glimmering snow peaked alps, verdant green pastures, colorful meadows, deep valleys and pine covered slopes.” It also said that “Gulmarg is known for its ski resort which was established in 1927”. Though we have never done skiing, it kind of enticed us. We also learnt that “it has Asia’s second longest cable car ride and the highest golf course in the world at an elevated altitude of 2,650 meters.”

We went by the cable car up to the snow clad mountain top, where there were lot of activities such as skiing, snowboarding, riding snow scooter, etc. My son tried skiing, fell down a dozen times within ten minutes. We rode the cable car to the second phase- even higher- with more snow and more cold. There some people asked us whether we would love to go up to LoC. We declined. We had piping hot two-minute noodles instead- at Rs 100/- a small bowl. At that price it had to taste good.

Maharaja Hari Singh Palace

At Gulmarg, we were staying in a hotel that overlooked the golf course and a solitary Mahadev temple. Scores of horses were patiently waiting for the tourists. Wooden sledges were stacked nearby. There was a paramilitary camp nearby, and a sign proclaiming ‘Maharaja’s Palace’. I have always been fascinated by palaces. It always evokes a mixed emotion within me- a sense of awe also a sense of envy- why couldn’t I live in one of these!



I walked up the winding road, slightly slippery because of the old snow- turned into hard ice. As I reached the gate, a highly decorated single story wooden structure could be seen amidst a well-cared for lawn. The 8700 sq ft Palace, reminiscent of European architecture was built by Maharaja Hari Singh, the last Maharaja of erstwhile princely state of Jammu and Kashmir in early 19th century. It has been converted into a museum now.

I was panting when I entered the palace. I asked for a glass of water to the person who handed me the ticket to the museum. He said, “there is no running water, as the pipes have frozen, but wait. I sat on the nearby sofa. Five minutes later he emerged with a glass of warm water and said, apna quarter se laya (I brought it from my living quarter).  Water had never tasted so sweet ever before.

Muscle Factory

I have seen ‘Kebab Factory’ in Bhubaneswar, ‘Brand Factory’ in Kolkata, ‘Pao Factory’ in Mumbai and then - the epic- ‘Muscle Factory’ in Srinagar. It turned out to be a gym.

 

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