Column | Window Seat

Window Seat | Mrinal Chatterjee

Lucknow Diary

I have heard a lot about ‘Lucknowvi tehzeb’- good manners of the people of Lucknow. However, the moment I stepped out of Lucknow Airport, I could understand that it also happened to be in UP, where it seemed everybody is hell bent to move ahead of the person in front. The traffic was chaotic and there was absolutely no attempt to regulate it. Vehicles of all make and sizes were trying to wriggle into any space that seemed slightly open.  

In my two had half days in Lucknow, it seemed UP-culture has invaded into Lucknowvi culture. On the roads and bazaars, you hardly experience the famed 'Lucknowvi tehzeb'. Instead you encounter the 'me in front, elbow others out' attitude. Probably I am wrong. I sincerely wish I am wrong. Or probably I met the wrong set of people, went to the wrong shop and walked the wrong road.

Sewa Chikan and its clones

Lucknow is known for its chikan-kari (chikan embroidery work). I wanted to buy a saree for my wife with the famed Chikan work. I wanted advice and was told to go to SEWA Chikan. SEWA, which stands for Self Employed Women's Association formed by a lady named Reema Bannerjee in 1984 initially with 31 women chikan workers. They produced good quality chikan work. Marketing linkages were established. Design inputs were provided. It sold well. Gradually SEWA became an established brand.
And then came the clones to bask in the glory of the brand image. Now every third shop selling chikan work in Lucknow is named SEWA. There would be some suffix or prefix like 'Lucknow Sewa', Shree Sewa, Sewa House, etc. I tried to find the original outlet of SEWA. I was told by the clone SEWA shopkeepers that it had long been closed. One of them said, "Original Sewa kabka band ho gaya, ab sara Lucknow sewa ka mewa kha raha hai." The original Sewa had died long back. We all are reaping benefit of its fame.
I do not know the actual status. I tried to check by surfing net. Found SEWA website:

https://www.sewalucknow.org/home.php
But there was a notice on the site: "We are sorry that our systems are down. W@e will be up shortly. Apologies for the inconvenience." The last update seemed to be of March 2019.

Tunday Kabab

Lucknow is known for its succulent kebabs like Galouti, Tunday, Boti and Chapli. The love affair between kebabs and Lucknow city goes back centuries in time. Historians believe that minced meat wonders were relished as a staple breakfast in 14th century Awadh. But it was only in the 17th century, that the kebabs of Awadh saw a revolution of sorts thanks to a toothless Nawab.

Until 17th century, kebabs were quite chewy and course in texture, which changed when Nawab Asa-ud-Daula came to power. Nawab Asa-ud Daula was a man who took his food as seriously as his court affairs. Some of the biggest Awadhi culinary gems came out from the kitchens of his khansamas. As the Nawab started getting old, he began losing his teeth. Age was catching up, but the nawab was in no mood to let this come between him and his love for good food. He ordered the Khansamas to make the softest kebabs that would require no chewing, and to do this without compromising on the flavours. He apparently setup a contest where the maker of the softest and most succulent kababs would enjoy royal patronage henceforth. The Khansamas rose to the challenge and came up with tender and succulent kebabs hoping for a favourable response from the King. The melt-in-your-mouth Galouti kebabs are said to be the outcome of the same contest. Since then, kebabs became softer and softer through generations and paved the way for the succulent Tundey Kebabs as we know it today.
I was curious to know why is it called Tunday Kabab?
The story goes like this: Haji Murad Ali lost his left hand while flying kite on the terrace. In colloquial lingo, a person with hand disability was called 'tunday', and so when Haji Murad Ali won the contest, his kababs became famous as 'Tunday Kababs'. Another version of the story says that Haji Ali was working on perfecting the mixture of the shahi galawat, when he fell off the roof and broke his one arm. This, however, didn’t stop him from pursuing his passion for cooking.
When the melt-in-your-mouth kebabs were introduced to the Nawab of Awadh Wajid Ali Shah, he instantly fell in love with the tender wonder, and gave royal patronage to the ‘Tunday Kebabi’
Made in a batch of 25- 30, the kebabs are cooked in ghee in dum style. The characteristic smoky aftertaste of the kebabs are a result of intense dum cooking. It is said that the kebabs made here continue to follow a closely guarded secret family recipe. Supposedly the women of the family make a special masala for the kebabas that use a whopping 160 different spices!
In 1905, Haji Murad Ali opened a shop named 'Tunday Kababi' in the crossroads of the Chowk area in Lucknow.
In 1996, third generation family members Usman Ali and Rizwan Ali decided to inaugurate another branch in the Aminabad area of Lucknow to widen the reach.
Over the years many competing food chains were established in different areas. However, earlier this year the Delhi High Court ruled that the 'Tunday Kababi' name belongs exclusively to Muhammad Usman, the grandson of Haji Murad Ali 'Tunday' in Lucknow.

Lucknow Metro

Lucknow has Metro rail since September 2017. It has now 22 stations. It is so far the fastest built Metro rail system in the country. The design of Lucknow Metro is futuristic and people-friendly. In several places including the Airport, the metro stations have been built as a hub of different mode of transport. There is a station just above a bus stand and at Charbagh Rail Station. I have seen this kind of design in Madrid, Spain. It felt good to see the spanking and well maintained Metro station in Lucknow.

IRITM

Indian Railways Institute of Transport Management is located in Lucknow. Set up in 2003, it was conceived to train the personnel involved in Supply Chain and Logistics Management in Railways, Highways, Shipping and Aviation. I was there as a resource person in a training programme on public relations.

Installations in IRITM campus

The 40 acre campus located in Manak Nagar adjacent to the Highway is very clean and green. Buildings and facilities have been maintained well. Officials and staff are courteous and helpful. From the hustle bustle of Lucknow bazars, the campus seemed like an island of serenity and peace.

The campus has well maintained lawns and tree lined wide roads. Replicas of old train engine and bogies dot the campus. I could understand the relevance of having old train engine and bogies. But I failed to understand why couple of tanks and fighter planes was also installed.

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The author, a journalist turned media academician lives in Central Odisha town of Dhenkanal. An anthology of his weekly column Window Seat, published in 2019 will be published as a book. Should you want a copy with introductory discounted price, write to him at: mrinalchatterjee@ymail.com